Bangalore traffic pushed our arrival past sunset, so we started the climb in the dark with headlamps. The sounds of loudspeakers and passing vehicles from nearby villages drifted up through most of the ascent. We were the only people on the trail. There is no water source at the summit, so we carried everything up. The extra weight tells. I made the mistake of hand-carrying a 5-litre bottle rather than packing it, and the handle cut into my palm badly enough to draw blood before we reached the top. We found a flat patch near the summit and pitched the tent by torchlight. By the time we finished our packed dinner, the village lights had mostly gone dark. Then a lightning storm started somewhere to the southwest, playing out silently across the horizon for the better part of an hour. The winds picked up steadily through the night, loud against the tent. At some point a recurring sound, somewhere between a large bird and wind pulling through the rocks, kept breaking the quiet. The morning settled everything. We caught the full sunrise from the summit, had coffee and Maggi on the peak, and stayed until the heat off the granite made sitting uncomfortable. Third time on this trail, first time camping. It changes the place considerably.

